Hünkar Beğendi - Sultan's Delight

Or lamb ragout on a bed of puréed aubergine. No wonder the Sultan loved it because we do too! This is an old Ottoman dish, the name literally meaning ‘the Sovereign relished it’.  I think Angie Mitchell’s translation is perfect: Sultan’s Delight! Yes! I am sure it will be your delight too.

Hünkar Beğendi: lamb on a bed of puréed aubergine

How does this sound? Turkish lamb is deliciously succulent and summer is the time for aubergine not forgetting those fabulous tomatoes ...

I was looking for a dish that I could prepare in advance and where the tastes would all meld together in a delicious combination of summer flavours. Friend Frances was coming for a few days and even though it has been extraordinarily hot, a nice meal upon arrival always says welcome.

But I do have a confession of sorts to make: instead of grilling or roasting the aubergines and making a huge mess of your oven, I used a jar. Yes, I did and I heartily advise you to do the same. It is not sacrilege just commonsense. A Turkish friend who is a really good cook advised me and I will never look back. However she did say that one should use a make without extra flavours thrown in like garlic. This one, Sera, available from Carrefour in Istanbul at least, is as natural as it gets. Try it and see. The taste is very authentic.

  

Ingredients for Hünkar Beğendi or Sultan’s Delight

Following a recipe from Angie Mitchell’s Secrets of a Turkish Kitchen

Serves 4

500g/1.1lbs cubed leg of lamb/kuzu kuşbaşı kuzu butu

1 medium onion, finely chopped

  

2 tbsps butter

1 small green bell pepper, seeded and chopped

2 garlic cloves, crushed

2 tomatoes, skinned and chopped

1 ½ cups hot water ( adjust according to how juicy your tomatoes are)

2 tbsps tomato paste

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Chopped parsley for garnish

For the aubergine purée:

1 jar Sera puréed roasted aubergine OR if you want to do it the traditional way, 6 large/1kg/2lbs aubergines

Squeeze of lemon juice

4 tbsps butter

3 tbsps plain white flour

1 ½ cups milk

½ cup hard mature cheese, grated (I used eski kaşar)

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Grated nutmeg/küçük hindistan cevizi

Method

·        Sauté the chopped onions gently in the butter until soft. Season the meat with the salt and pepper and add to the onions, stirring occasionally until evenly browned. Add the chopped green pepper and garlic and when these are sizzling add the chopped tomatoes and continue cooking until the juice has evaporated. Add the hot water and the tomato paste, cover and simmer for about 1 hr or until meat is tender. Take care it doesn’t dry out and add a little more water if necessary. Check the seasoning and adjust accordingly.

all cooking down

don't you think this looks mouth-watering?

For the aubergine purée:

First make the white sauce like this:

·        Melt the butter on a low heat. Add the flour and beat well to make a roux. Slowly add the milk, whisking thoroughly to get a smooth consistency, and cook for 5 mins. Add the mashed aubergine (for traditional way, click here), a little salt and freshly ground black pepper, and simmer gently for a further 5 mins. Remove from heat, stir in the cheese and a little freshly grated nutmeg and simmer gently for a further 2 mins.

adding the cheese

make sure you get the right consistency

  

·        Serve hot, the meat sitting on top of a bed of the aubergine purée, and garnish generously with chopped parsley.

Hünkar Beğendi or Sultan's Delight ready to serve

  

·        If you reheat the purée, you may need to add a little more milk to ensure you achieve the correct consistency.

Afiyet olsun!

A delicious meal at any time but especially now when the tomatoes and green peppers not to mention the aubergines if you are using the real thing, are at their best. I recommend making it in advance as the tastes will blend and become even better.

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And here is a bit of summer news: my lovely fellow friend and blogger Özlem  Warren from Özlem's Turkish Table will be in Istanbul and doing a day of cooking classes at the Istanbul Culinary Institute. Unfortunately I can't be there to participate but maybe you can: here is some info to whet your appetites:

August 7th, 2012 Tuesday 19.00-22.00

Turkish Table – Guest Chef Özlem Warren

Turkish cuisine is a reflection of a rich cultural and historical heritage. With an emphasis on seasonal freshness, and delicately flavoring with spices, healthy Turkish food is a feast to all your senses. Please join Özlem, as she shares delicious and easy to prepare Turkish recipes, inspired by her homeland, Antakya, Turkey.

• Walnut, red pepper paste, olive oil dip; served on crackers
• Roasted eggplant salad with yoghurt, garlic and dried mint
• Tray baked kebab with potatoes, peppers and tomatoes
• Baked dried apricots with walnuts and vanilla ice cream

130 TL

Yummy, eh?

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.......and here is a pic of the wonderful thank-you present Frances left me on the breakfast table this morning (Yörüks are traditionally nomads who are now settled in several villages around here and who occasionally sell their things here in Assos):

it's a Yörük hand-woven band for a new mum to wind round and round
her tummy in order to regain her shape after giving birth! Amazing!